I've driven a Zamboni for nearly two decades. It is a source of income and pride and amusement and frustration.
Many blue collar jobs are like this.
And, like many blue collar jobs driving a Zamboni is easy to learn and hard to be great at. I'm pretty good. I'm not great.
My lead hand Bill is great.
I'd like to be as good as him, but I don't know the difference. This is another thing about many blue collar jobs - the quality and expertise of performance is not a simple set of rules. I can follow Bill and do the same pattern, cut the same amount, take the same amount of time and lay down the same amount of water and somehow his clean is just a little better than mine.
It is fucking maddening and I don't know how to bridge the gap.
However, that is not all I'm here to write about. Like most jobs, I face occasional flurries of people talking about how I could do my job better. And, like most jobs, those flurries are made of bullshit and bad ideas instead of understanding and wisdom.
I'd like to dispel some myths and explain, in relatively simple terms, how a Zamboni (or any ice resurfacer) works.
First, in our scenario the ice is in good shape. It is flat and level. It doesn't need to be edged or chipped, and we don't need to fuck around with the board wash or worry about the corners being high or the middle being low. It's a perfect starting sheet of carved up ice.
To begin, you need to start your machine....no shit right. It's just like starting your car. In fact, in most arenas the keys are just left in the machine - if you ever want to steal one. Your machine could be a factory electric, or a converted electric, or a propane machine, or even one of the old, old gas powered resurfacers. All of them start basically the same. But, it needs to be full of hot ice making water, and luke warm wash water. (Each arena and operator tend to have their own preferences about water temps. But this is a good combination).
Once your surface is clear of skaters you (usually) back out onto the ice. Each operator has a different starting point, but I start about half way up the boards (near the red line) on the side nearest the exit, or 'pit' as the place we store our machines is often called. I turn my machine up (increase the RPMs) and start to drive forward. I drop the conditioner - lower it hydraulically using the second lever of the four that sit beside me. The conditioner is the business end of the machine. It turns that old frosty, rut filled, snow covered pond into a shiny and smoothly shimmering ice surface.
The conditioner is the magical part you stare at as the machine goes around and around. It houses the blade which cuts the ice, the horizontal auger which brings the snow to the vertical auger which send it into the bucket at the front of the machine. Inside the conditioner is also the place that wash water shoots down and is vacuumed up and the very end (on the outside) is where the ice making water cascades out and the rag helps evenly distribute that water and smooths the surface a little bit more.
After the conditioner is flat on the ice I turn on the vertical and horizontal augers. These are the first and third of the levers sitting directly to my right. These augers carry the snow to the bucket, which takes up most of the machine. If it isn't already set, I turn the wheel adjustment and set my blade to cut. The amount I cut depends on a myriad of factors. They all take time and practice and repeated screwing up to figure out. As I implied, this isn't a job with an easy to follow guide book. And training is usually limited to the most basic requirements. As soon as I set my blade I turn the wash water valve full open - it's the farther of the two water handles on the machine. I also turn the ice making water open, but not too far. My sensei, Glenn Collier, told me you should never have full water on the first pass around the ice. The conditioner doesn't (and shouldn't) touch the boards. The blade is tapered, which means the last few inches don't cut as much as the rest. This means between four and six inches from the boards can't be cut as hard. (That is the 'edging' I mentioned. Every day, or so, you need to take a special machine to cut down the outside edge of the rink). If you put water on full during your first pass you will send water out to the boards and build up ice you can't cut during the day. It makes the edges higher much faster and that means you can't cut properly the first two passes. This leads to the high corners and low middle we don't have in our near perfect starting scenario.
Now, I make sure my board brush is on so I can take the snow built up against the edges and spin it under the conditioner. And, within a quarter of a lap I turn on my wash water pump to suck up the wash water I am using to clean the ice a little.The wash water has a couple of purposes. As the name suggests it literally cleans the ice. It picks up dirt and debris and removes it with the vacuum which continually recirculates the wash water through the pump and a filter, which catches the debris. The wash water also softens the ice slightly, making it easier for the blade to cut the ice. Every Zamboni operator has had the experience of learning to use wash water and realizing they are suddenly cutting fifty percent more when it is on. In addition, the wash water, because it is under the main part of the conditioner, mixes with the accumulating snow to form a slush. This slush helps fill the ruts in the ice.
This is the important bit. The blade cuts the ruts out. Each time a skate carves the ice a rut is left. The size of the rut depends on the skaters ability, and size and ice conditions. But, let's ignore those for now. The blade can take a 1/4 inch rut and turn it into a 1/8 inch rut - for example. Then the snow that is accumulating from the blade cutting ice and the snow that is all over the used ice fills the ruts a little bit. Wash water turns the snow into slush, which holds up better to the ice making water at the back end of the conditioner. Essentially, snow mixed with hot water tends to melt into water. Slush, mixed with hot water tends to stay slush. And slush freezes much quicker than water.
I continue cutting the ice, laying down water for eight laps. My pattern of ice resurfacing is two laps around the outside and then I drive up the middle of the ice (slightly to the left side of the crease the first time). I drive up the middle and then down the side and then slightly farther to the left up the middle and down the side another Zamboni width out until my pattern is done. Like I said, it takes eight laps, although the final lap is not a full width of used ice. And, every Zamboni operator has their own pattern. And many of us get pretty bored and change them up to amuse ourselves.
This is the basic story of many blue collar jobs. The description is not overly complicated, but it isn't simple. The results looks simple when done well. But the journey from description to competence is long and twisted and involves many mistakes. It is a journey of embodied expertise and semi-conscious understanding. And every operator I know describes it a little different.
I don't know if it is a metaphor for life, or expertise or what.
Mostly, I wish I knew why Bill was so fucking good.
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